Tuesday, November 27, 2012

so... a very bad pun.
If you look at the interlining you can see that I had to hand baste it to the lining. The grains of the the flannel and the taffeta made it impossible to sew them together without bubbling and slipping. To save my family from nuclear meltdown I grabbed my needle, thread, and a large glass of red wine. I won't vouch for the accuracy of any sewing but at least the entire thing is done. I need to make a disclaimer here; I did tissue fit the pattern before I cut! Honest I did, I did! The tissue fit said to add to the bottom of the front panels. My fear of cutting to small took over and so I added the fabric. UGH....
You can see that caused the seam lines to skew out of plumb.
I also didn't need the extra "winger" this caused. Thank heavens for muslins, aka interlinings. That was marked as the first alteration. However, I was happy with the yoke and the "V" of pleats down the back. I think it looks good and will make a comfortable back.
Next, I removed the excess fabric from the pleated area. I still feel like the shoulders are a bit too wide. I marked them, but I will wait to cut them down until I have test fit a sleeve. I ripped out the sides, removed the added fabric, and restitched them for the second fitting.
You can see that the seams hang much more plumb and they don't have the twist that the excess caused.
I have to keep in mind that this is an outer coat. Each fitting is done over at least two layers. I think this fitting is better and I am almost happy with the drape of the front. I like the way the lapel lays open and is well placed for my frame.
I am counting on the weight of the wool to eliminate some of the "poof" that these fabrics create around the tummy. All in all, I like it so far, not "loving it" yet. But, it is a work in progress. I will post sleeve fitting next and cutting the wool. Opinions gang... I think it needs some piping along the back yoke and would like some feedback. Oh, FYI the button holes will be bound. When you think about the piping that might help. Comments anyone?

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