Tuesday, November 27, 2012

so... a very bad pun.
If you look at the interlining you can see that I had to hand baste it to the lining. The grains of the the flannel and the taffeta made it impossible to sew them together without bubbling and slipping. To save my family from nuclear meltdown I grabbed my needle, thread, and a large glass of red wine. I won't vouch for the accuracy of any sewing but at least the entire thing is done. I need to make a disclaimer here; I did tissue fit the pattern before I cut! Honest I did, I did! The tissue fit said to add to the bottom of the front panels. My fear of cutting to small took over and so I added the fabric. UGH....
You can see that caused the seam lines to skew out of plumb.
I also didn't need the extra "winger" this caused. Thank heavens for muslins, aka interlinings. That was marked as the first alteration. However, I was happy with the yoke and the "V" of pleats down the back. I think it looks good and will make a comfortable back.
Next, I removed the excess fabric from the pleated area. I still feel like the shoulders are a bit too wide. I marked them, but I will wait to cut them down until I have test fit a sleeve. I ripped out the sides, removed the added fabric, and restitched them for the second fitting.
You can see that the seams hang much more plumb and they don't have the twist that the excess caused.
I have to keep in mind that this is an outer coat. Each fitting is done over at least two layers. I think this fitting is better and I am almost happy with the drape of the front. I like the way the lapel lays open and is well placed for my frame.
I am counting on the weight of the wool to eliminate some of the "poof" that these fabrics create around the tummy. All in all, I like it so far, not "loving it" yet. But, it is a work in progress. I will post sleeve fitting next and cutting the wool. Opinions gang... I think it needs some piping along the back yoke and would like some feedback. Oh, FYI the button holes will be bound. When you think about the piping that might help. Comments anyone?

Friday, November 23, 2012

Well the first set of the pictures are ready to upload. This is a new skill so hopefully it will work!
This is the fabric, lining, and a very blurry picture of the pattern. I am trying to figure out distance with my camera. I wanted to make the left hand jacket. It's a pleated back from a yoke. I was hoping to make a barn jacket. Something easy to slip on and run to the grocery store with. The fabric is a dark plaid that doesn't jump out at you as much as the lining will. I thrifted all the fabric and bought the pattern on a $.99 sale. I am hoping it will not be a total wadder. That, by the way, is a new term that I learned from all the sewing boards I have been reading lately. Truthfully, it's kinda nice to know the proper term for a piece of sewing that goes so wrong, you wad it up and toss it. LOL! After all these years, now I know. I am not alone! So another shot of the fabric, which is not much better than the first one... hum.
and just so everyone knows... sewing is very messy work. This is a shot of my guest room being consumed by fabric, pattern, and assorted reference books.
yikes! Next step, basting the interlining to the lining. Keep fingers crossed.

Wednesday, November 21, 2012

It's been forever! I haven't blogged about my adventures in ages so this time I am going to try and document the evolution of my new winter coat. I hope pictures are easy to upload because this will need some visual support. Being of short stature and unique shape I have decided to create my own coat this winter. An adventure in of itself but the fabric begged for a new home. I found over 6 yards of a lovely 100% wool fabric and some wild and fun lining at the local thrift store. So, being the adventuress I bought self same fabric hauled it to the dry cleaners and then home to begin. Ideas abounded, but reticence prevailed. First"s" should be successful. So I went with a jacket that is simple but highly useable and included jusst enough stretching to be worth the fabric and skill "de-rusting". More to follow shortly!